Friday, 29 April 2016

Are We Ready?

Actually, yes, it feels like we probably are. In a way we have been preparing for this trip for months. What started as a frivolous conversation, where we goad each other with what we might do in our lives, seems to have gathered pace and turned into something very (slightly terrifyingly) real. And now it's here.

So what is it? We think we are cycling from Cancun to Quito. We say ‘think’ because really we don't know what will happen. And we're happy about that; for once, we think we've bought space for a bit of spontaneity.  If we manage something like 70km a day for 3 days in 4, we've got enough time to ride 4,000 miles. We've gone for a low estimate on our daily distance because if you take a look at a topographical map of the region it is mind blowingly mountainous. Think the Alps, on stilts, with enormous sombreros on.  Actually, that sounds pretty cool, I bet we’ll get some good views from up there. If we can hold our heads high enough to see them as we lug what amounts to (bikes and panniers all in) 45kg each.  We actually stuck our heads in the sand about this bit until we were forced by Thomas Cook at check-in to see exactly how heavy the load will be (and paid for it).

Now you see it...How to make 90kg disappear

So, are we physically ready? If that involves lots of cycling, then no. Ali has been being put through his paces by a physio building up his core and basically trying to help him stop being so wonky (nose aside). Lizzie has been being put through her paces by ex-military hard nuts, lighting up Shoreditch Park with her blindingly glowing cheeks as she sought to ‘win’ what wasn't a competition. We did go on one bike ride with all our gear, which we cut down in length substantially due to ferociously inclement weather and went home for tea instead. It's not going to rain in central america though is it, so it wouldn't have helped prepare us anyway…

As an alternative Ali's opted for a shave to reduce wind resistance.


Sunday, 3 April 2016

Scratching an Itch

Last year, as we debated whether or not to buy a car, we used to joke (i.e. Lizzie believed and Ali rolled his eyes) that owning a car would make us soft. Hopping into your own warm, mobile room which you can use to get easily from A to B, closets you from interaction with the world around you - good and bad.  Not having to work out how to navigate public transport, enduring irritating delays, waiting with the masses for for the bus in the rain. There is, of course, an argument that we lead busy lives and a car would allow us to move between places quicker and pack even more in; but keeping an eye on the principle of allowing ourselves to become soft is an important one.  In this case, the efficiency argument won out.


In the end, we bought a car because we bought a kayak, and the kayak needed transporting.  We spent last winter speeding along in our private saloon (or, tin box) three times a week to Barking, where we routinely, and often in the dark, plunged into the filthy and freezing waters of the River Roding.  This car wasn't making us soft, it was a facilitator of something akin (but more humiliating) to waiting for the bus in the rain.


Right now, life feels quite comfortable. Don't get me wrong, there is plenty that is challenging, work can be hard, relationships difficult, health complicated, but the structure that we have is simple and effective (a brilliant group of friends nearby, good, interesting jobs, a cosy flat that we love) it feels safe, and known.  It facilitates a propensity for softness.

So it seems obvious to want to disrupt it (Lizzie believes, Ali rolls his eyes).

We're not brave, or stupid, enough to totally rock the boat. We don't want to churlishly throw away what we have, but we do want to challenge ourselves, to put ourselves out in the world and see what happens. Like our kayaking activities, which were intense, ‘character building’ and short lived (because it frankly wasn't that fun!) we are have a bounded, manageable, intimidating and hugely exciting plan to cycle through Central America. We leave in a month.


Uncomfrotable (having just dragged ourselves out of the river)
Comfortable


Modern day explorer, and strong advocate of adventuring for all, Alastair Humphreys writes about the compulsion that we have tried to describe in a much more eloquent way in There Are Other Rivers. Here’s how he describes it:


There are three stages of flabbiness in life.  Each is more restricting and stifling than the one before. They creep insidiously over me like vines until it takes one hell of a struggle to escape their snuffling up my life then I know it is time to hit the road.


The first stage of flabbiness, and the easiest to fix, is physical flabbiness.  It begins when busy schedules, dark winter days and eating too much win the devil’s foot race against the part of me that knows that exercise isn’t a waste of time but actually makes me more efficient, alert and happy.  Despite knowing this I am still at times sufficiently idle to let my standards slip and my fitness slide away.  Fitness is like chasing a shoal of fish; difficult to master and get on top off, easy to lose.  If I don’t go running for a few days, I feel cooped up and ratty.  Leave it a few more and the habit is broken.  I know I need to run.  I want to run.  But I just can’t be bothered.  Flabbiness had begun to set in, slowly, invasively, like cataracts.  Before I know it I am easing out my belt buckle and blaming my sloth on the effects of my age.
The second stage is mental flabbiness.  Give up exercising, stop forcing myself out the front door for a run and inevitably my mind starts to sag too. I used to feel alert and inquisitive.  I read lots of books.  But one evening I came home tired.  Flopping down onto the sofa I reached for the television remote instead.  Suddenly I am gripped by light entertainment.  I realise how pleasant life can be if I stop thinking about it.  Is it much simpler to exist than to live. I’ve got a dishwasher and a coffee percolator and I drink at home most nights with the TV on.  I sit slumped in front of the telly flicking around channels until I have frittered away enough of my life that it’s time to go to bed.  
Finally I start forgetting any of these things, then I know I am on a slippery slope towards the third, terminal, stage of flabbiness; moral flabbiness!
  • Each day I am one day closer to my death.  No matter how aware I am of this, it is still sometimes pretty difficult to believe in my own death.
  • I don’t know when I will die, so putting things off to an indeterminate date in an un-guaranteed future is pretty daft.
  • I am happiest when I have a sense of purpose.
  • There are so many places I would still like to see, so many interesting people to meet, so much to do.  And there is so little time.  Before I know it I’ll be dead and what a bloody waste of that will be if I’ve just been arsing around.


By the time I have succumbed to the debilitating onslaught of physical and mental flabbiness I am already well on the primrose path to moral flabbiness.  Not only have I conceded my physical health and settled for candy floss in place of a brain, I have accepted that this is good enough for my life.  I have become comfortably numb.  I have decided that Friends repeats and a Chinese takeaway are sufficient return for the privilege of being born, healthy and intelligent enough, in one of the richest, most free countries on the planet.  I have  a passport to explore the world.  I will always be able to find some sort of work.  I will never starve to death.  It's hard really for me to come up with any decent excuses.  The choice is all mine.

Life is too brief and too rich to tiptoe through half-heartedly, rather than galloping at it with whooping excitement and ambition. And so I explode in rage just in time. It's time to go prowling in the wilderness. It is time to live violently again. It is time to sort my life out. This can be done in two ways. I either jump in the nearest cold river for a bracing swim, or I plan a trip, set a start date and, come what may, begin.

Saturday, 16 January 2016

Cycle Touring

As our first proper foray into unsupported cycle touring, Vietnam has been a bit of a crash course, which will hopefully serve us well for longer trips.  


We’ve learnt some of the touring basics (the level of planning that we feel comfortable with; a finely drilled routine for packing the panniers; how much water to carry; that route planning is fun, but also boring!) and the Vietnam specific ones (what makes the best breakfast - bahn mi op la of course!; what sort of mileage feels doable given the heat; when a toot-toot is a motorbike speeding by and when a HOOOONK-HOOOONK is a massive lorry, so brace yourself).


Initial Route Planning
Subsequent Route Planning


But we also confirmed, and were confronted by, some of our expectations.  Most importantly that touring is as much about the body as the mind.  We both suffer from niggles, and at times downright agony, from various parts of our bodies.  We’ve been working in unison with them for enough years to listen hard, play nice and sometimes beg when we are asking a lot from them.  The mind is a different, and a delightfully/infuriatingly changeable beast.  It is where our minds might take us, and frankly how to handle them, that this trip has provided a taster for!


We’ve been working for a while now on the understanding that life is about the journey, not just the destination, but my goodness that can be hard when you’re tired, a bit bored and you are counting down the miles in front of you as you edge towards the one thing that is certain - the destination. Remind me, why we are doing this?


A helpful mile marker

The counter to that is that happiness exists right here, in this moment, as I give my all to grind up this hill, as I watch the sun climbing into its morning pose, as I catch the eye of an inquisitive motorbike rider peering at me as they chug past, or better still, the squeal as I free wheel past on a long smooth, blissful down hill.  It’s the deep satisfaction as we pull into town, the sheer pleasure of observing the passing landscape as my legs work happily away beneath me and I know that we made this happen, we made a plan to get on our bikes and cycle in Vietnam and here we are, with everything we need, bloody doing it!  And then the next moment is has gone.  How many more miles?


Lovely View 1
Lovely View 2

We know those ups and downs, and that on our cycle journeys they will both be with us often.  

We’ve embedded a link to Ali’s Strava profile so that you can see our route.

Vietnam

Three years after we set off from Cairo to cycle to Cape Town, we have dusted off our touring bikes (there was a lot of dust, most of it was red and far from home) and decided to do some more exploring by bike.  This time without the brilliant support of the medics, mechanics, lunch truck and flagging tape from Tour D'Afrique, we’ve donned the panniers and are riding fully loaded for a few weeks in Vietnam.


Fully Loaded

We anticipate this being the start of a new phase, with bigger plans afoot.  More to come on those later, but for now, we wanted to share what we have found in Vietnam.


Language


It was a few days before we realised that no word in the Vietnamese language has more than 6 letters, and most of them have only 3 or 4.  Our main source of words has been menus and we were quick to learn the favourites - Bahn Mi op la (delicious baguette with egg, coriander, soy and cucumber for our morning feed on the road); Bo Pho (soup with vermicelli noodles and meat) Mi Xao Hai San (noodles with veg, prawns and other seafood).


Our fave - banh mi

Not our fave

Using so few letters means combinations are often repeated but with different accents or emphasis.  There are a huge number of accents, which mean that pronunciation is key!  We witnessed a great conversation between a kind French man helping us with some route planning and his Vietnamese colleagues.  I alerted them to the fact that there are two towns with the name My Tho (my-toe) when he shared this with his colleagues he received denial, confusion, accusation of lying.  It took some time for us to discover the tiny dot below the o; ‘Oh, My Tho (my-tow), yes of course we know that place’.  It was an entertainingly French reaction to a Frenchman (sorry French readers - but it is true!).


Transport


The Vietnamese are often thought of as a nation of bike riders.  Indeed, when Lizzie visited Vietnam in 2001 this still felt to be the case, but the number of people sedately pedaling through the city as they go about their business have been far outstripped by their noisier, speedier, motorised friends.  In some ways this makes the road quite an alarming place to be, with the seemingly unending surge of motorbikes buzzing around us, not least because roundabouts and crossroads are in effect massive free-for-alls. However, what we have discovered, and what any pedestrian trying to cross a road must, is that, slowly but surely, you need to push out and hold your ground, road users are in fact pretty courteous, anticipating one another's moves, creating space and allowing other vehicles through.  I can't say it always feels water tight, but at its best, this methods is respectful and generous (which seems to match the nature of Vthe Vietnamese) and here at least, it works!


Bikes in Saigon

Weddings


The thing that we have been most surprised, and entertained by, is the huge number of weddings that we have seen.  We lost count at 25 on the Saturday we rolled out of Ho Chi Minh City. The demographic of Vietnam is very young, with an average age of 19, so it’s hardly surprising that they are all getting hitched.  We amused ourselves observing the gauche street parties that they hold in celebration, with huge bright and brash awnings under which to seat the guests, and on display to any a passer-by, an enormous picture of the bride and groom, in full wedding regalia, posing adoringly in front of a waterfall, a sunlight meadow or a field bursting with flowers.  It’s a certain type of tacky you need to develop a taste for.

As always when traveling by bike, we've had the pleasure of noticing so many little nuances and wondering about interesting features along the way.  It leaves us with hundreds more questions than answers, and excited to continue to explore.  

Friday, 31 May 2013

TDA 2013 Cast

We have just updated the video for the final section of TDA 2013 to include the aforementioned video cast list - click here to watch it. It follows the normal section 8 video. It's worth watching for those who know people on the trip!

Sunday, 26 May 2013

The TDA 2013 Song

Our resident musician on the trip, Phil Howard, was tutored by none other than Ronan Keating. He composed a song to summarise the 'epic adventure' and we have put some clips to it.

Click here  to hear it.

Friday, 24 May 2013

The final chapter...

The video for the final leg of what we have now decided to call our 'epic adventure' is finished and you can watch it by clicking here or by clicking on the Blog archive. There is a cast list at the end for those that are interested (apologies to sectional riders - we didn't have all of you)!

We hope you have enjoyed watching the videos - they have been a lot of work to put together so for anyone who has been watching them to keep tabs on the tour, please help us to support out three great charities by sponsoring us. You can do so by clicking here.