Water – the giver of life

In a country where water is so scarce we are really able to see its importance and it’s playing an important role in our time in Sudan.  Fitting then that we should arrive across the water – travelling by boat across the Lake Nasser.

As in Egypt, it is possible to see the dramatic impact of the water from the Nile.  Where there is water, life blossoms and things grow; where there is none, the vast sandy expanse of nothing stretches on.  By the Nile we see people, livestock, plants and (as mentioned above) flies.  Where there is no water all of the above are scarce.  It was only once we arrive in Dongola and slept under a shady tree filled with the chatter of birds that we realised we’d not seen a single bird for days on end.

One of the features of Sudan we have noticed is that by the roadside you often see a collection of large urns at places where a bus might stop and in towns.  These are filled with water from the Nile and then the seeds of fruit such as dates and prunes are left at the bottom.  These are supposed to attract the dirt, cleaning the water.  The water is then available for anyone to drink.  A gift to the community, these are often looked after by individuals in memory of a loved one, much as in England we dedicate a park bench in a spot with a good view. 

Urns for water

As cyclists we intimately feel the need for water.  We have the capacity to carry 3.5 litres on our bike which we replenish at least once, if not more frequently, a day.  To be able to do this, we watch our usage carefully and don’t have water for cleaning. You can feel the impact on your whole body as you start to dehydrate, your mood darkens and feel yourself weaken, sometimes you even notice yourself licking the inside of your mouth to find moisture.

While on the bike our own hydration is key, water is also a precious resource for cleaning.  The Sudanese have a good system of sinks by their cafes and restaurants where hands are washed before and after consuming a good tasty bowl of fava beans or chicken.

Lizzie getting carefully stuck in..

Water is certainly precious.