The Haboob

The last few days riding from Dongola to Khartoum have been a real experience in changeable weather. On our first day, cycling 140km, the temperatures peaked at 42°C, melting something within our SLR camera, which has decided it is no longer for this world. In fact, the temperature in that part of Sudan was so hot, we stayed in a camp we named ‘Dead Camel Camp’, as every 50m there was a camel carcass in the sand.

The morbid 'Dead Camel Camp'

The following day, 143km, the wind started to pick up providing an increasing tailwind which we were grateful for. However, once we reached camp, it was gusting 50-60km/h and seemingly bringing half the Sahara desert with it. We soon found ourselves in what the locals call a ‘haboob’, or sandstorm, with no visibility and sand finding its way into every orifice. We hoped it would die down but it only got worse; for dinner we had a small helping of rice with our sand. Trying to erect our tent in that weather was also a major test in physical and mental power – the Crystal Maze would have been proud.

The following morning, the Haboob still had not cleared so we set off on our bikes (149km), which by now were so full of sand they were incapable of changing gear, with about 20m of visibility and a healthy wind, sometimes behind, sometimes across us. It was bizarre cycling in this weather – as we cycled and matched the wind speed, everything became eerily quiet, like after a heavy snowfall, with streams of sand whisping across the tarmac. It was quite becalming and we averaged over 40km/h at the same time!

By the afternoon, it began to clear, and by camp the temperature was in the low 30s, we were no longer being exfoliated as we sat in our chairs, and it was absolutely lovely. Overnight, the temperature plummeted and when we woke the next morning, everyone was digging out the thermals, jumpers and jackets; quite a contrast. Now in Khartoum, it is a very pleasant 30°C, and we are enjoying a nice day off, out of the desert. Six more riding days to Ethiopia, where the desert ends and the mountain ranges begin!